Walkabout #4: Broughton Street, Kirribilli (2061)
It's Sydney's leading suburb for practical jokes, claims Luke Benedictus
Modest apartment blocks gather in awe around the lip of the harbour
Kirribilli is like an unsuspecting bloke who cops a custard pie in the face, slips on a banana skin and then lands headfirst in a barrel full of whoopie cushions. It's Sydney's unofficial capital of brainless pranks.
Examples? Well, last year, some online joker listed Kirribilli House for sale on an internet real estate site. Except it wasn't actually for sale at all. B'dum-tsh! Other zany stunts have included people in fancy-dress sheep costumes haranguing John Howard on his morning power-walk. Or the cheeky scamp that hurled a burning bag over the gates (subsequently arrested and charged with malicious damage). Only last month, some fun-loving goon leapt from Manly ferry to break into the Governor General's grounds at Admiralty House and take a dip in the pool. In Kirribilli, the buffoonery never stops.
As a result, two policemen keep a sharp look-out for incoming gagsters outside Kirribilli House. Built in 1854, this was intended for Prime Ministers to use whenever they had appointments in Sydney - The Lodge in Canberra remaining the PM's official address. John Howard sparked controversy when he defied tradition and made Kirribilli his primary residence. But looking through the railings at the harbourside set-up you can understand the decision. It's a pleasant Gothic building with steep gabled roofs and gardens sloping down to meet the water. Apparently, Howard used to insist on placing toy rubber snakes on the outside tables to scare off the birds and stop them crapping all over his Prime Ministerial veranda.
Despite these historic addresses, Kirribilli doesn't feel prohibitively swanky. There are lots of impressive houses but they're scattered among unimposing apartment blocks, art deco flats and even cheap hotels. As a result, the suburb exudes a laid-back residential feel, the North Shore location forming a welcome buffer to the city grind.
Running parallel to the Bridge, Broughton Street is Kirribilli's main artery. It's a lively jumble of shops, cafés and al fresco restaurants. But the real action happens in the side-streets that snake off to the east. Don't miss Catalonia on Fitzroy Street, a top-notch tapas joint whose plateful of morcilla with asparagus and fried duck egg topped Time Out's 2007 list of "dishes that rocked". On Bligh Street is Epi d'Or, a Parisian bread boutique that sources loaves from Sydney's top bakeries. Another local favourite on Broughton Street is Garfish, a relaxed seafood restaurant whose spanner crab omelette must count among Sydney's top brekkies.
Walking up the hill, turn right at Milsons restaurant and then down onto McDougall Street and the Ensemble Theatre. Housed in an old boatshed on Careening Cove, the Ensemble is Australia's second longest running theatre company and has hosted talents like Greta Scacchi and Russell Crowe. Next door is the Sydney Flying Squadron, an old sailing club that's worth a look even if you don't have anchors tattooed on your forearms. Sip an icy schooner on the outside deck that projects out onto Milson Park and the water below. The view will start to look even better when you discover how cheap the drinks are.
Suitably refreshed, pay your respects to Chief Lapu-Lapu at 12a Carabella Street, where a statue of the muscle-bound Filipino warrior stands outside Glenferrie Lodge. Though no-one seems to know quite why.
Head back onto Broughton Street and pass the two Thai restaurants, Stir Crazy and Thai Foon, locked in a battle of jocular word-play that makes the nearby Thai Fusion look relatively po-faced. Under the Bridge, Kirribilli Market takes place at Bradfield Park from 7am on the fourth Saturday of the month with hungover bargain-hunters haggling over vintage bric-a-brac, jewellery and antiques. Continuing under the Bridge, wave across at the Opera House while the swimmers at North Sydney Pool lap up the epic view.
Even before turning the corner you can hear screams of giddy excitement spilling out of Luna Park. This candy-coloured wonderland of flashing lights, gravity-defying rides and cuddly prizes continues to thrill children everywhere. The numbers speak for themselves. In the last four years, Luna Park pulled in 4.5 million punters, witnessed 168 marriage proposals and, somewhat less romantically, 5,110 people being sick. But its closeness to Kirribilli only reinforces impressions of the area's susceptibility to rubbish jokes. After all, every schoolkid knows what Luna Park spells backwards.
In the ’hood
Kirribilli Markets
Over 300 stalls of vintage fashion, arts, crafts and collectibles materialise at Bradfield Park (on the corner of Fitzroy and Alfred St) every fourth Saturday of the month. (Enquiries: 02 9922 4428 or email info@kncsydney.org).
Kirribilli and Admiralty House
Once a year, the residences of the PM and Governor General are opened to the public by the Australiana Fund. 111 and 109 Kirribilli Ave, Kirribilli 2061.
Milsons
Mod Oz magic from chef Lee Kwiez makes this Kirribilli’s best bet for a splurge. 17 Willoughby St, Kirribilli 2061 (02 9955 7075).
Catalonia
This Spanish restaurant delivers modern tapas with imagination and genuine flair. 2/31a Fitzroy St, Kirribilli 2061 (02 9922 4215).
Sydney Flying Squadron
The old sailing club is a great bet for a bargain-priced harbourside booze-up. 76 McDougall St, Milsons Point 2061 (02 9955 8350).
Getting there
From Central
Bus 423 to Bridge St nr Loftus St, then the 111 to Broughton Street ($4)
Train North Shore Line train to Milsons Point Station ($2.60)
Ferry From Circular Quay the closest ferry stops are High Street (North Sydney) and Kirribilli Wharfs ($5.20)
Parking Available at Milsons Point train station.
Real estate
Apartment 1/28 Waruda Street, (One bed, one bath)
Price $378,000
Previous Sale $245,000 on 4/12/1998
House 18 Jeffrey Street, (3 bed, one bath). For auction 8/5/08
Price $1–1.3 million
Previous Sale $660,000 on 28/01/2000
Prices courtesy of Location 2065