Pendolino
Café by day, wine bar by night - Pendolino offers organic and biodynamic reds and 'crazy water'
By Myffy Rigby
The stately Strand Arcade location makes for an unforgettable evening out
There’s something slightly creepy about standing inside an empty shopping mall at night. But don’t let this stop you heading to level two at the Strand Arcade of an evening to pay a visit to Pendolino. Café and olive oil store by day and elegant restaurant and wine bar by night, this looks set to be one of Sydney’s most exciting openings in recent times.
Having only been open a week or so, they’re still working out the kinks (where the wine lists have been hidden during day shift, say, or why there aren’t any straws in the house – that kind of thing), but it can all be forgiven because Pendolino is doing something interesting.
Being smack bang in the middle of the city and offering smart service and proper drinks, this 50-seater is a great alternative to the mega-pubs and clubs on George street.
You could start with a glass of Champagne or prosecco or have a cocktail – the list is brief but has some interesting drinks on it like the Aqua Pazza, meaning “crazy water” in Italian: gin, triple sec, limoncello, rockmelon, orange blossom and mint. A few of those and you’re guaranteed a crazy night.
Pendolino also pride themselves on being able to mix anything off the list, too, though their Americano (gin, Campari and soda) is a little anaemic. Better is the Scroppino Verde – prosecco, lemon and green apple sorbet, vodka and milk – worth checking out if only to see what possesses one to mix vodka and milk.
The wine list is Italian influenced, broken up into northern, southern and the islands and features interesting Italian-style reds like the Alpine Valley barbera but there’s also a nice range of Australian rieslings and chardonnays as well.
Impressively, Pendolino maintain a separate wine list for organic and biodynamic wines, including a shiraz from Hunter Valley wine-makers-of-the-minute, Krinklewood. Independent organic wine lists are appearing more often in Sydney and whether there’s much stock to be put in growing biodynamic (we’re still not sure how burying the horns of lactating cows under the full moon on the vineyard makes better wine – they say it has something to do with the tides), they stack up well against similar wines made without the horn.
Happily, there are two areas in which you can really make yourself at home. The first is the café area with a skinny bar that looks right over the arcade. It’s a great view – like looking down the barrel of a Victorian train station but with the twisted panels of wrought iron and beautiful tiling of an historic Sydney shopping mall. The second is the olive oil area where the walls are lined with a huge range of oils (we want the one called the Hairy Marron) – both Australian and Italian, and a big sturdy communal table, ideal for a big group. There’s a warm vibe to Pendolino that says it’d be all too easy to lose an evening here.
Shop 100, Level Two, The Strand, 2000. (02 9231 6117) Thu–Sat 6pm till late