Time to Vino
This new bar heralds a Sydney drinking scene to come with a casual, neighbourhood feel, a good vibe and plenty of great wine, writes Myffy Rigby
Newly opened a couple of weeks ago by sommelier Clint Hillery (he also wrote the lists for Verandah, Light Brigade and Gazebo) this sweet little room with a neo deco feel, down-lights and a great buzz is just the kind of bar Stanley Street needs. And while this wine bar's name leaves some a little vexed, Time to Vino is one of those places where a golden vibe stays with you after you leave.
Ignoring the whole concept of bars-by-numbers and choosing instead to go with a more low-key European feel, Time to Vino's tables line one side of the room while the other side has bar-style seating with high tables and bar stools.
Quirky chalk work presides here too. Half the wall is consumed by a blackboard for daily specials broken up into ‘Waiting for Friends' (little bites like the charcuterie board of spicy sausage, salami and duck confit), ‘Friends Are Here' (larger dishes which are more dinner-y) and ‘Who Needs Friends?' (dessert) - cute.
Downstairs, everyone crowds into the room for something off the intelligent, concise and in no-way-scary- or-daunting list while upstairs sees more of a gallery/function area for 50. And if wine doesn't have you singing from the Hills hoist they also serve longnecks of Coopers Pale. These people are talking our language. All they need is to get some sweet vermouth along with the existing gin and Campari and we could have Negronis, too.
We ask for a couple of wines: one "red and stinky", the other "fragrant and clean" off what Hillery claims will be an ever-evolving list. Our waiter takes a second then points us to the blackberry jammy and down-on-the-farm Torrevento negroamaro and the rich, full bodied yet brisk Domaine de la Renjarde Cote du Rhone - both picks are bang on. Big ups to wine waiters this sharp - Sydney needs more of them.
The kitchen needs a little more attention. Both visits have seen otherwise creative and interesting bar snacks cooked in old-tasting oil which is a shame because the menu itself offers a change from the usual fried fodder you see around Sydney bars - foie gras mousse and five spice chips (large sheets of crisp, whisper-thin potato sandwiching smooth, rich liver) say, while their dish of tasty mushroom beignets might do well to be served on the side of the truffle and white onion cream to save the ends going mushy.
You could quite easily bunker down and really put a dent in the wine list here and Clint and the crew would be more than happy to help you do it.
Time to Vino 66 Stanley St, Darlinghurst 2010. (02 9380 4252)