Ashes to ashes, dust to daytrip
David Hayes digs up Sydney's finest graveyards

A trip to the graveyard doesn't rank high on many people's lists when it comes to destinations for a day out in Sydney. But if you can quell your morbid thoughts of rotting corpses and ghastly ghosts, a trip to one of Sydney's cemeteries provides a unique insight into our heritage. "Cemeteries let us get in touch with our roots," says Robin Hawes from Friends of Rookwood Cemetery, a group of volunteers dedicated to the preservation and restoration of the Rookwood boneyard near Strathfield. "There are lots of reasons why people visit graveyards," says Hawes. "You can see craftsmanship in the beautiful sandstone monuments and see some historically famous Australians."
Camperdown Cemetery
Of the 16,000 or so people thought to be buried in this Inner West graveyard, only 2000 headstones remain. St Stephens Cemetery in Newtown was open for business for just 18 years between 1848 and 1867. In the 1940s and 1950s about three-quarters of the cemetery was resumed to open the Camperdown Memorial Rest Park, which is now a popular walking spot for the people and dogs of the Newtown. You'll find convicts, criminals and sailors buried here. 189 Church St, Newtown 2042 (02 95572043 www.ststephens.org.au)
Frenchs Forest Bushland Cemetery
This large multi-denominational cemetery on the Northern Beaches is beautifully landscaped with native flora such as flannel flowers and grevillea. The cemetery has a whopping 700 family vaults and crypts. 1 Hakea Ave, Davidson 2085 (02 9451 6204 www.ffbcemetery.com.au), 6am-6pm.
Mays Hill Cemetery
Located between Holroyd and Parramatta on the Great Western Highway, Mays Hill is thought to have about 600 unmarked graves. This recently-restored cemetery documents many of the area's pioneering families and local identities. "It's a great place to learn about the history of the area," says Pat O'Brien from the Friends of Mays Hills Cemetery. Corner of Steele St & Great Western Hwy, Mays Hill 2145 (www.mayshillcemetery.org)
Rookwood Cemetery
Our Deputy Editor Dan Rookwood wouldn't be seen dead here. Opened in 1867, Rookwood is final resting place for about one million people including retailing entrepreneur David Jones and early Aussie media mogul John Fairfax. The largest multicultural necropolis in the southern hemisphere, the cemetery is packed with beautiful Chinese temples, Islamic moments and Catholic chapels. It also contains Holocaust memorial shrines and Sydney War Cemetery. Hawthorne Ave, Rookwood 2141 (02 9746 8433 www.rookwoodcemetery.com.au) sunrise-sunset.
Waverley Cemetery
A cliff-top location affording spectacular ocean views makes Waverley Cemetery a popular stop for day trippers tackling the Bondi to Coogee coastal walk. Opened in 1877, Waverley is the dirtnapping sanctuary for about 50,000 people, including many famous Aussies. With a sharp eye and patience, you'll spot the graves of poets Henry Lawson and Dorothea Mackellar, founder of The Bulletin Jules Francoise Archibald and gold medal swimmer Fanny Durack. Trainspotters will recognise the cemetery from films including David Caesar's Dirty Deeds (2002) and Mel Gibson's Tim (1979). St Thomas St, Bronte 2024 (02 9665 4938 www.waverley.nsw.gov.au/cemetery) 7am-dusk.