Time Out Sydney: Hot 50 Restaurants
The latest and greatest in eating and drinking
By Myffy Rigby
Welcome to the Temple of Love... Chinta Ria
This is how we do it
We visit the establishments anonymously and pay for our own meals and drinks.
The restaurants and bars that appear in this section are chosen by Time Out’s food critics and appear alphabetically.
For enquiries email
food@timeoutsydney.com.au
ß Bar snacks available
¢ Cheap at twice the price
* A cut above
V Vegetarian
O Just opened
ƒ Seafood specialists
CITY
Aria *
The room is lush, the service can’t be beaten and their wine list is award winning. Try the duck consomme or pork belly with apple. Head chef and sometime telly celeb, Matt Moran even dry ages his own steak under the restaurant. Beat that.
1 Macquarie St, East Circular Quay 2000. (02 9252 2555 www.ariarestaurant.com.au) Licensed. Around $150 per person
including wine. Lunch: Mon–Fri 12 noon–2.30pm. Pre-theatre: Mon–Fri 5.30pm–7pm. Sat 5pm–7pm. Dinner: Mon–Fri 5.30pm–11.30pm. Sat 5pm–11.30pm. Sun 6pm–10.30pm. Supper Mon–Sat 10pm–
11.30pm. Sun 10pm–10.30pm.
Bertoni Casalinga
The Sicilians running this place can cook like hell. This is one of the CBD’s busiest new lunch spots and while they’re charming every lady in the place they’re serving roast sausage with tomato and spiral pasta and Italian donuts the size of missiles.
262 Kent St 2000. (02 9262 5845) Around $15 pp. Mon–Fri 6am–6pm.
Chinta Ria Temple of Love
This is one hell of a fancy room – there’s a gigantic laughing buddha statue taking pride of place in the middle of the room that must weight around a million tonnes and all the furniture is fifties diner. There’s incense burning everywhere and you’ll find dishes like beef rendang, chicken satay skewers and gado gado. Oh, and they have Tiger beer to wash it all down.
201 Sussex St 2000. (02 9264 3211 www.chintaria.com) Lunch: Mon–Sun 12 noon–2.30pm; Dinner: Mon–Sun 6pm–11pm.
Coast * ƒ
Fresh seasonal produce, immaculate care with every dish and bright, light flavours make this Italian restaurant the winner that it is. Sit on the balcony, take in the harbour breeze and order the buffalo mozzarella and plump tomato salad or crumbed veal cheeks with cabbage salad. Don’t miss the range of grappa and excellent Italian wines.
201 Sussex St
Sydney, 2000. (02 9267 6700 www.coastrestaurant.com.au) Licensed, around $130pp, including wine. Lunch: 12 noon–2.30pm; Dinner: 6pm–10.30pm
East Ocean
For one of the best selections and exceptional service (they even have a drinks cart that rattles around the massive 400 seater), this is the one. Their chee chong fun (those flat steamed-then-fried rice noodles served with sweet and dark sesame sauce) are the business. And they’re open super late too.
421-429 Sussex St, Haymarket 2000. (02 92124198 www.eastocean.com.au) Licensed, around $25 pp not including alcohol. Daily 10am–2am.
Element
Matthew Barnett cooks up bistro classics like salade nicoise and calves liver with onion rings but it’s the Boston Bay mussels with basil sauce that really hit the mark. Nothing on this menu is rocket science but it’s just what the doctor ordered when it comes to quick, no nonsense lunch time fare.
63 King St,?2000. (02 9231 0013) Licensed, around $50 pp, including wine. Lunch: Mon–Fri 11.45am-3pm. Dinner: Mon–Sat 5.30pm–10pm.
Nippon Club
A Japanese restaurant in the deep dark pits beneath Macquarie street serving up mixed sashimi like tuna belly, kingfish and whiting, say and tempura prawns. They also have a dish called ‘Men’s Business’ beef curry and rice that we’ll be going back for. Japanese teev blares and the room is filled with businessmen chowing down on nori rolls and miso soup. There’s karaoke, too.
229 Macquarie St, 2000. (02 9232 2688) Licensed, around $15 pp. Mon–Fri 11.30am–10pm
Rockpool Fish * ƒ
Eating fish here is as close to heaven as you’ll probably get. And if you’re a crab fancier, you’ve come to the right place. Not your bag? Have the $14 Moroccan fish burger. Everything a top restaurant in this town should be with the choice of going for a complete blowout or keeping it modest. What a winner.
107 George St, The Rocks 2000. (02 9252 1888 www.rockpool.com) Licensed. From around $14pp for the burger, around $135pp for the crab. Tue–Sat from 6pm.
Tetsuya’s * ƒ
The 12 course tasting menu is as much about getting through the lot without falling asleep as it is the intricate and beautifully crafted dishes. Make sure you don’t fill up on the bread with truffle butter – it’s an easy thing to do, we can assure you.
529 Kent St, 2000. (02 9267 2900 www.tetsuyas.com) Licensed & BYO. Ten course degustation menu $185 pp. Lunch: Sat from 12 noon. Dinner: Tue–Sat from 6pm.
Yoshii * ƒ
The best sushi in the southern hemisphere can be found in The Rocks. It’s not all raw fish, however. There’s also a degustation menu featuring anything from lamb tataki to a sea urchin egg cup. Prop up the sushi bar for a smart lunch.
115 Harrington St, The Rocks 2000. (02 9247 2566 www.yoshii.com.au) Licensed, around $100–$120 pp for degustation menu. Around $50 for sushi bar. Tue–Fri 12 noon–6pm.
EAST
Almond Bar
While their drinks may be sweeter than a fluffy puppy made wholly from lemon sherbies, they’re doing some interesting things with mince on the old restaurant Riva site. Kibbeh nayeh (that’s raw mince mixed with cracked wheat) is sensational with little pieces of pita bread and the Middle Eastern style room is charming.
379 Liverpool St, Darlinghurst 2010. (02 9380 5318) Licensed, around $60–$70 pp. Lunch: Fri 12 noon–3pm. Dinner: Tue–Sun 4pm till late.
A Tavola *
The communal marble table packs in around 25 people – just enough to serve comfortably with everyone getting the right attention from the very cool waitresses, although you could also sit in the newly fit-out courtyard. The olive all’Ascolana (olives wrapped in pork mince then deep fried – kinda like an Italian Scotch egg) and the pappardelle with meatballs are the highlights here.
348 Victoria St, Darlinghurst 2010. (02 9331 7871 www.atavola.com.au) Licensed and BYO, around $80 pp, including wine. Dinner: Mon–Sat 5.30pm–late.
Bar Coluzzi
Owned by ex-boxer Luigi Coluzzi (hence the pugilism paraphenalia plastered everywhere) and opened as one of Sydney’s first true cafes in the 1950s, Coluzzi make excellent macchiato (stained coffee) and a mean chockie milkshake. You’ll see lots of old Italian men on squat little wooden stools outside smoking, playing cards and sip-sip-sipping.
322 Victoria St, Darlinghurst 2010. (02 9380 5420) Not licensed, around $3.00 pp. Daily, 10am–2pm.
Bistro Moncur
Damien Pignolet has expanded with cheap pub food upstairs on the Terrace and the bottlo next door but the bistro is still the best part of the growing Monkers empire. The sirloin with café de Paris butter and salad specials keep us coming back, even if it is on the exxy side. The Woollahra Hotel,
116 Queen St, Woollahra 2025. (02 9327 9777 www.woollahrahotel.com.au). Licensed. Around $80 per person including wine. Lunch: Tue–Sun 12 noon–3pm. Dinner: 6pm–10.30pm.
Buon Ricordo *
Though the food at Buon Ricordo has thus far stayed fairly true to chef Armando Percuocco’s roots, this may all be set to change. Chef Darren Taylor has joined the crew at one of Sydney’s most famous Italian restaurants. Our question is: will house classic fettucine al tartuovo last the distance? Word is all the Roman gear from Massimo Bianchi’s day has disappeared.
108 Boundary St, Paddington 2021. (02 9360 6729 www.buonricordo.com.au)
Fish Face * ƒ
Give Steve Hodges a fish and he’ll tell you where and when it was caught and its mother’s name. He’s just as talented at cooking it (or not – they also do sushi) and with Beverley Wood on the floor you know you’re in good hands.
132 Darlinghurst Rd, Darlinghurst 2010. (02 9332 4803 www.fishface.com.au) Licensed & BYO. Around $50 pp. Dinner: Mon–Sat 6pm–10pm.
Macleay Street Bistro
It’s the bistro to the stars – David Wenham’s been spotted there along with plenty of other Potts Pointers. Sit outside if it’s a nice evening, order the spatchcock with pea ragu, and take in the scenery (you’ll see a lot of men holding handbag dogs).
Shop A 73 Macleay St Potts Point 2011. (02 9358 4891) BYO, around $75 pp. Daily 6pm-11pm.
Onde
T-bone steak and shoestring chips? We’re there. Classic bistro food in space-age environs, you’ll find yourself in the large polished concrete room faced with choices like fried lamb’s brains or duck pate. A great choice for a quiet Wednesday night.
346 Liverpool St Darlinghurst 2010. (02 9331 8749) Licensed, around $55 pp. Daily 5.30pm–11pm..
Pier * ƒ
Sheer delight on a plate, smooth service and perched on the water to boot. Mostly seafood centred with a bit of meat on the side, the spanner crab minestrone is poetry as are chef Katrina Kanetani’s desserts. Far from cheap, but close to perfect and definately without peer.
594 New South Head Rd, Rose Bay 2029. (02 9327 6561 www.pierrestaurant.com.au) Licensed, around $150 pp including wine. Lunch: Daily 12 noon–3pm. Dinner: Mon–Sat 6pm–10pm; Sun 6pm–9pm.
Pizza Mario
These guys have the Verace Pizza Napoletana stamp of approval. And what does that mean when it’s at home? It’s like a licence to make pizza properly – pretty much everything made the way it is in the old country. They do a killer potato, sea salt and rosemary pizze.
417-421 Bourke Street, Surry Hills. (02 9332 3633 www.pizzamario.com.au) Licensed, about $30 pp, including birra. Open 7 nights from 6pm, Sat–Sun lunch.
WEST
Boathouse on Blackwattle Bay * ƒ
They’ll tell you go for the snapper pie and views of the working harbour. We say for the fresh shucked oysters, rye bread and butter, and blini with ocean trout roe, paired with a glass of champagne. And if that’s not enough, they also do one of the best QLD mudcrabs in town. Bliss.
End of Ferry Rd, Glebe 2037. (02 9518 9011 www.theboathouse.net.au) Licensed. Around $120–150 per person. including wine. Tue–Sun?Lunch 12 noon–3pm.?Dinner: Mon–Fri & Sun 6.30 pm-10pm. Sat 6pm–10pm.
The Codfather ƒ
Cute seafood bistro and little sister to Newtown’s Oscillate Wildly. You might not find Daniel Puskas’ cooking here but it’s laidback and the chips are great.
83 Percival St, Stanmore 2048. (02 9568 3355) BYO, around $55. Breakfast: 9–11.30am; Lunch: Sat–Sun 12–3pm; Dinner Tue–Sat 6–9.30pm.
Fish on Fire ƒ
They do a great beer battered chip, the fish is great and it’s exceptional value. It’s more of a takeaway hole than anything, but there are a couple of tables outside if you’re inclined to eat in.
217a Glebe Point Rd Glebe 2037.(02 9660 4212) Around $7.50pp, daily 11am–9pm.
Fisherman’s Wharf ƒ
Complain no more about deep fried oysters and cheese covered lobsters when you visit the Fish Market for your dose of Omega 3. Head up during the day for yum cha or check out the eveing fare with the million dollar fish tank filled with lobsters, live prawns and pipis.
Cnr Bank St, Pyrmont 2009. (02 9660 9888 www.sydneyfishmarket.com.au) Licensed, around $35pp. Yum cha daily: 11am–3pm; Dinner 5.30pm–12 midnight.
Glebe Point Diner
This place is the antidote to bad dining. Think roast chook with bread sauce and super sweet corn kernels, black fig tart, peach Melba and honey ice cream. Seasonal produce prepared and served with the upmost care and professionalism.
407 Glebe Point Rd
Glebe 2037. (02 9660 2646) Licensed, around $60 pp, including wine. Thu–Sun 12 noon–2.30pm, Wed–Sat 6pm–9pm.
Giulia Cafe
It’s packed out every Saturday morning with people queuing out the door for the breakfasts and milkshakes. Built in a hundred year old butchery, the room length counter is groaning with breads, pastries and glossy mags as well as the huge espresso machine. The daily juices are great and you can get a bagel or a BLT pronto.
2 Abercrombie St, Chippendale (02 9698 4424 www.cafegiulia.com) Not licensed, around $15 pp. Tue–Fri 6.30am–4pm; Sat–Sun 8am–3pm.
Hong Fu ¢
We walked past this place twice before we found it but boy, were we glad when we did. Hand stretched noodles to rival those at The Chinese Noodle Restaurant as well as the most luscious pickled Chinese cabbage and pork boiled dumplings. All in a homely little room in the middle of Parramatta.
Shop 26, 48–50 George St, Parramatta, 2150. (02 9891 1225) Around $10 pp. Daily 11.30am–10pm.
My Canh
For the best Vietnamese food go west. In Bankstown you’ll find plenty of good pho joints but this is the best for the rare gear you don’t often see like coconut tainted minced beef with prawn chips or green papaya salad with jellyfish and pork.
29-31 Greenfield Pde, Bankstown 2200. 902 9796 7586) Around $20pp. Daily 11am–11pm, except for Tue 5pm–11pm.
Restaurant Sojourn
Perched right near the Balmain wharf, this winsome little sandstone restaurant does classic French fare – stiff white tablecloths and all. Try the duck terrine or assiette of rabbit. For something with a little more grunt, maybe the pan-fried skate with braised ox tail.
79 Darling St, East Balmain? 2041. (02 9555 9764 www.restaurantsojourn.com.au)
Licensed, around $80 pp with wine. Lunch: Fri 12 noon–3pm. Dinner Tue–Sat 6pm–10.30pm.
Sonoma Cafe
If you haven’t tried the organic sourdough bread from these guys, you’re missing out on some of the best buns this side of San Francisco. They also do a decent coffee and a few pastries as well as sell loaves of olive and potato to whole soybean and linseed bread.
215 Glebe Point Rd, Glebe 2037. (02 9660 2116 www.sonoma.com.au) Not licensed, around $10 pp. Lunch daily: 8am–4pm.
Temasek
For some of the most authentic Malaysian out of Malaysia, head to Parramatta. Their nasi lemak (literally meaning ‘fat rice’, it’s a half sphere of coconut cream enriched rice, a side of chicken curry, tiny dried anchovies, chilli, tamarind and usually half a boiled egg) equals any of the ones you find in the food halls around the city and more attractively presented.
71 George St, Parramatta 2150. (02 9633 9926). Not licensed, around $15pp. Lunch: Tue–Sun 11.30am–2.30pm; Dinner: Tue–Sun 5.30pm–10pm.
SOUTH
Beverly Hills Friendship Oriental ƒ
Have the peking duck. It comes first as a pancake with raw green onion and sweet, syrupy sauce as well as a particularly good pancake and then as san choy bau – finely choppped duck meat captured in iceberg lettuce. There’s also a brilliant mud crab with green onion and ginger and they do soft drinks by the jug.
477 King Georges Rd, Beverly Hills, 2209. (02 9586 3288) Licensed, around $90 pp, if you order duck and crab in the same meal. Daily: 5pm–2am.
Blackwater
Traditional Italian hits San Souci with a bada boom. Riccardo Roberti dishes up firm nubules of gnocchi with a hand pounded pesto and arancini filled with curling tendrils of mozzarella. Don’t miss the pear sorbet.
Shop 1, 8 Water St, San Souci 2219. (02 9529 4893) Licensed & BYO. Around $60–$70 pp, including wine. Lunch: Wed–Fri & Sat noon–
2.30pm; dinner: Tue–Sat 6–9.30pm.
Brasserie Bread
You’ll find this bread in the best restaurants and provedores. It’s beautifully simple, wholesome and tastes like sunshine. It’s also over six bucks a loaf. The dudes who bring you this luxury bread have now opened a café where you can nosh on sourdough pancakes, salads and sandwiches.
1737 Botany Rd, Banksmeadow, 2019. (02 9666 6845 www.brasseriebread.com.au) Not licensed, around $5–$10 pp. Mon–Fri 7am–3pm; Sat 8am–2pm.
Danks St Depot
Jared Ingersoll’s food is classic bistro. A smooth, comforting potato and blue cheese soup to start, a rib eye with Cafe de Paris butter, then poached strawberries with goat’s curd to finish. The space is gorgeous with wide, well trodden floor boards and the most open kitchen for miles (it literally spills onto the floor).
1/2 Danks Street Waterloo 2017. (02 9698 2201 www.danksstreetdepot.com.au) Mon–Wed 7.30am–4pmThur–Fri 7.30am–11pm, Sat 8am–11pm, Sun 9am–4pm.
The Nun’s Pool
Walking in to the restaurant is like entering a sun-drenched living room, with paintings of the beach adorning the walls. Breakfast features pancakes, pastries, and modern versions of the much loved fry up, including balsamic tomatoes, poached eggs with asparagus, and sauteed mushrooms with prosciutto and thyme.
103 Ewos Parade Cronulla 2230. (02 9523 3395 www.thenunspool.com) Licensed, around $40 pp. Tue– Sat 8am–4pm. Edward Ovadia
Chez Pascal
Chez Pascal is a blessedly unreconstructed, completely unpretentious old-school French place doing all the bistro classics. Philipe Lebreux serves up snails with plenty of garlic, foie gras and apple crêpes with a thick French accent and plenty of calvados.
250 Rocky Point Rd, Ramsgate 2217. (02 9529 5444) Licensed. Around $70–$80 per person including wine. Tue–Sat 6pm–9pm.
Ocean King ƒ
A rickety old house on the edge of the highway it may be, but it’s the place of places to spend Chinese new year. Eat oysters as big as your fist or stop in for their legendary yum cha.
247 Princess Highway, Kogarah 2217. (02 9587 3511). Around $25–30 per person for yum cha. Lunch: Mon–Fri 11am–3pm, Sat–Sun 10am–3pm. Dinner: Mon–Fri 11am–3pm Sat–Sun 5.30pm –10.30pm.
Seri Nonya
The best Malaysian this side of Botany Bay. Order ahead for their fish-head curry and better still, their black pepper crab.
561 Kingsway, Miranda 2228. (02 9525 0036). BYO. Around $25 per person. Dinner: Mon–Sat 5.30pm–10pm. Lunch: Tue–Sat 12 noon–2.30pm.
Sunny Harbour Seafood Restaurant ƒ
Mystery specials written in Chinese on the side of the carts and their exceptional roast pork and jellyfish salad garnished with a shiny lotus filmed in pork fat are all part of the yum cha fun at Sunny’s. Best that you drag along a big group for maximum dim sum value.
9–11 Croft’s Ave, Hurstville, 2220. (02 9585 1633) Licensed, around $20 pp. Lunch: Daily 10am–3pm. Dinner: Daily 5.30pm–11pm.
Superbowl
No, it’s not American football, at least not in Sutherland. It is, however a Chinese restaurant chain that not only does a decent line in fresh juices and health shakes, but also pork noodles and Chinese broccoli – a safe lunch choice.
227 Forest Rd,Hurstville 2220. (02 9585 2686) Around $15 per person. Daily till 2am.
NORTH
Bathers’ Pavilion
Pioneer chef Serge Dansereau has one of the most attractively located restaurants in the North which looks out over Balmoral beach. Chestnut soup is delicate, sweet and bold and while the prices may send plenty of us out the back to wash the plates, this is a popular choice with the locals.
4 The Esplanade, Balmoral, 2571. (02 9969 5050 www.batherspavilion.com.au) Licensed, around $120 pp, including wine. Lunch daily: 12 noon–2.30pm. Dinner daily: 6.30pm–9.30pm.
Bavarian Bier Cafe
You might find
yourself staring down the barrel of
a whopping veal schnitzel with sauerkraut or Bavarian meat platter stacked with sausage and mashed potato or a giant pretzel served with a wad of butter.
Shops 2–5 Manly Wharf, Manly, 2095. (02 9977 8088 www.bavarianbiercafe.com.au) Licensed, around $30 pp, including a stein of beer. Mon–Fri 10am–late; Sat–Sun 8:30am–late.
Bistro Paris
The room isn’t anything special to look at but the snacks are great. Boudin noir with little pieces of fried apple and slivers of green asparagus is rich and tangy while an apricot tartin has layers of light as air pastry and creamy house made vanilla ice cream. And all under a gym.
Shop 9, 81-91 Military Rd, (corner of Ben Boyd Rd) Neutral Bay (02 9953 5669 www.bistroparis.com.au) Licensed, around $80 pp, including wine. Lunch: Wed–Fri, 12 noon–2.30pm; Dinner: Tue–Sat, 6–10pm.
Catalonia * ß
Enter all ye who dig Spanish food. There’s an all-Spanish wine list, dishes like morcilla (blood sausage) with a deep fried egg with runny saffron yolk and some exceptional churros (that’s a long Spanish doughnut) with chocolate mousse.
Shop 2, 31A Fitzroy St, Kirribilli 2061. (02 9922 4215 www.catalonia.com.au) Licensed, around $50 pp, including wine. Lunch: Sat–Sun 12 noon–4pm; Dinner: Tue–Sun 6pm–10pm.
Excellent BBQ Kitchen ƒ
Eastwood is a wealth of snacks. There’s Korean as far as the eye can see and this little gem serving shredded duck with rice cake and preserved vegetables, pork belly and greens, donut shaped shallot pancakes and hand cut pork pot stickers (steamed then fried dumplings).
Shop 25, Lakeside Rd, Eastwood 2122. Not licensed, around $15pp. Daily, 9am–1am.
Garfish
They specialise in seafood but their menu also runs to dishes like confit duck leg with chestnuts and cauliflower pikelets with horseradish.
2/21 Broughton St, Kirribilli 2061. (02 9922 4322) Licensed. Around $80 per person.
including wine. Breakfast 8am–11am (Sun from 9am) lunch 12 noon–3pm dinner 6pm–9.30pm.
Kuali * ƒ
A mud crab split and shared at
a table is a beautiful thing, especially when it’s covered in chilli sauce. The roti are excellent here, as are the satay sticks and you can’t look past the otak-otak (that’s fish purée cooked in bamboo leaves). Ringa-ding-ding!
First floor, Lane Cove Arcade, 115 Longueville Rd, Lane Cove 2066. (02 9418 6878 www.kuali.com.au) Licensed & BYO, around $40–$50 pp. Tue–Sun 5.30pm–10pm.
Milson’s
A Kiribilli institution, you’ll find a dark, stylish little room with with lots of silvertailed, stylish punters. The desserts are outstanding, like the pave (French for square shaped) of vanilla ice cream, mango sorbet and soft meringue.
17 Willoughby Street, Kirribilli, 2061. (02 9955 7075 www.milsonsrestaurant.com.au) Licensed, around $100pp, including wine. Lunch Mon–Fri 12 noon–3pm; Dinner: Mon–Sat 6pm–10pm.
Sapporo ƒ
This is chef Greg Doyle's pick for sushi on his day off. If you’re serious about your sushi, cut to the chase and ask for omakase which basically means putting your trust in the chef to make the selections. They broadcast sumo wrestling live and have giant beers. Sugoi!
94 Willoughby Rd Crows Nest, 2065. (02 9436 3435) Licensed, around $45 pp. Tue–Sat 6pm–10pm.
Sea Treasure ƒ
The happiest fish on earth flop around in the tank of Sea Treasure (though we reckon the eels look very angry, too angry to eat anyway). It’s a hotspot for yum cha in the north but order some live seafood, if you can.
46 Willoughby Rd Crows Nest 2065. (02 9906 6388) Licensed, around $25pp. Mon–Fri 11am–3pm, Sat–Sun 10am–3pm, daily 5.30pm–11pm.