Hugo's Manly
Hugo's is now northside. Myffy Rigby finds it's not just the food that's hot
Two of the waitresses at Hugo's are hot, blonde identical twins. Yes folks, it's true - these are the only identical twins working in Sydney restaurants that we've seen. "We're from the same egg," says Julie and Sarah Doyle. "It got all split in two and that's how we came to be identical." We're sure that's fine by the red-blooded fellas of the world.
There's no shortage of hotness at Hugo's. Everybody's dressed like it's Fashion Week and there's a lot of swanning around from table to table. The space is designed to maximize space and before even checking your booking you'll be standing at the bar with a drink in your hand - a gesture that's both infuriating and also pretty cool considering how well-versed the bartenders are in most cocktails.
Having been open for a couple of weeks, the place is already going ballistic with punters crazy for the offerings. And boy do they churn 'em out: waitresses bump by with pizza, antipasti and chips at an alarming rate, and though it takes a little longer than expected to be served, once you've got your order in, the kitchen bangs out the plates faster than you can say ‘Usain Bolt'.
Pizza is a Hugo's signature and it's well priced. That said, it's not the best in Sydney by any stretch of the mozzarella - the bases are more like biscuit dough than pizza dough. And while the Margherita has all the right fixings on paper, the cheese that's melted on it looks and tastes like that supermarket stuff, while unmelted on the top are a few dots of cold buffalo mozzarella placed carefully on artfully arranged basil leaves.
They do however do a tasty meatball in tomato sauce with shaved parmo over the top that goes particularly well with a Kirin (they have it on tap - joy!). The chips come with an exceptional tomato sauce but the oil they're frying in could benefit with being a little hotter. And watch the zucchini flowers - they're delicious but deadly. As soon as you bite into them, hot goat's cheese runs out in a scalding melty river down your arm (well it did to us, anyway).
The crumbed pork cutlet with fennel is a great idea but again the frying oil isn't quite hot enough so you don't get those scalding hot bits of crumb burning your fingers that's synonymous with this Aussie classic. Cauliflower gratin is another old school mum touch we love.
Where this place is really going to go off is the amazing views, especially now summer's on its way. It's going to be not only a fantastic place for a sneaky afternoon beverage, but a hot Manly nightspot with locals and ferry-hoppers alike.
Hugo's Manly Shop 1, Manly Wharf, East Esplanade, Manly 2095. (02 8116 8555). Licensed, around $50pp, including cocktails. Daily,12pm till late.