Strangers with Candy

With its flaking burgundy paint job and cracking view of the petrol pumps across the road, Strangers with Candy's tatty urban charm won't instantly appeal to everyone. Cosy and buzzing with table chatter, it's hard not to feel at home here under the corrugated plastic roof of the courtyard out back. Couples talk intently across the tea lights at most tables, interspersed with two or three noisier groups of six and staff are warm, quick with service and always nearby at the right time.

Standing out against this casual, comfy backdrop is the food - the slow-cooked pork belly with spiced green papaya strips is a rich, sweet and sizeable slab. Lighter are the steamed prawn wontons with Chinese mushrooms in a sesame and lemongrass broth with coriander pesto, though not in terms of word-count.

The duck confit with apple and ginger agrodolce (the Italian version of sweet and sour sauce) is tender and hearty. More delicate is the spaghettini, with its chilli zing stopping nicely short of overpowering a bumper crop of blue swimmer crab meat. Bringing up the rear is the tea-smoked salmon with panzanella (an Italian bread salad). The panzanella - chopped tomatoes, cheese and small pieces of bread - is like eating a salad pizza. Desserts here are comfort food rather than clever and are big enough for two, like the sauternes custard with fresh raspberries and burnt caramel.

Ultimately, the shabby-but-chic décor, creative menu and mellow atmosphere add up to a very interesting whole. Rough around the edges but polished where it counts, this is a real gem. Nicola Steerforth

Licensed, around $50pp.