Time Out Sydney / Issue 43: September 3-9, 2008

The Southern Highlands

A quaint oasis is just a cooee from Sydney. Time Out explores the Southern Highlands

The Southern Highlands

Recently this part of the world, well state, has experienced something of a renaissance as a tourist destination, and it's not hard to see why.The Southern Highlands are just a two-and-a-half hour train ride from Sydney, but it feels refreshingly farther with its fusion of the Australian landscape and quaint English-style villages.

The area hosts cosy and well-preserved towns such as Berrima (founded 1831) manor homes (the beautiful Ranelagh House in Robertson), stone lanes, churches and other historic buildings.

Although there is a smidgeon of truth to the local saying that the highlands are for ‘the newly-wed and nearly-dead', the region encompasses tropical and sub-tropical rainforest, plays host to the second-largest falls in NSW, and edge onto Morton National Park, so there is something for most tastes - albeit party ravers, this is not the place for you.

Kangaroo Valley Village

Known for its iron roofs and iconic sandstone pillared Hampden Bridge (built in 1897), Kangaroo Valley is a quaint destination that has long been popular with Sydneysiders. With fantastic outdoor activities on offer, including walking and camping as well as canoeing and kayaking on the picturesque Kangaroo River, Kangaroo Valley is a perfect family weekender.

Stay the night at the Kangaroo Valley Tourist Park, near the bridge. (1300 559 977)

Fitzroy Falls

A town where the scenery is as Australian as Paul Hogan (which is pretty damn Australian), Fitzroy Falls has the biggest waterfall in the vicinity, plummeting 81 metres into the Yarrunga Valley. The walks around the falls are a wildlife haven, so be ready to meet locals - 48 species of gum tree, lyrebirds and perhaps a wombat.

For more information, pop into the Fitzroy Falls Visitor Centre, 9am-5pm daily. (02 4887 7270)

Berrima

Australia's finest example of an 1830s village, many of Berrima's buildings are still in pristine condition. The 1838 neoclassical Court House (cnr of Wilshire and Argyle St), with its sandstone portico and curved wooden doorways, is a must-see. Don't miss the 1843 trial re-enactment of adulterous Lucretia Dunkley and her lover. Other historic buildings worth a visit include Harpers Mansion and Australia's oldest licensed hotel, the Surveyor General Inn.

Bowral

On the long road to Bowral is the Berkelouw Books Barn (Old Hume Hwy, 02 4877 1370, 9:30am-5pm daily), stocked to the rafters with some 200,000 second-hand books. Bowral is an attractive town, especially during the Spring Tulip Festival, but its big claim to fame is that the late Sir Don Bradman grew up here. The Aussie cricketing legend is honoured in the Bradman Museum (St Jude St, 02 4862 1247) on the edge of the Bradman Oval across from the Bradman home. If cricket isn't your cup of tea, then perhaps a trip up Mount Gilbraltar for stupendous views of the surrounding countryside will be.

Morton National Park and Bundanoon

This gem of a park is best accessed from the town of Bundanoon - a good base for bushwalking and cycling. Meaning ‘a place of deep gullies', Bundanoon has as Scottish a flavour as its name sounds. Every year in the week following Easter, the town transforms into a mini-Brigadoon for highland festivities which include traditional games, dancing and street parades. In its heyday, Bundanoon was the honeymoon centre of the Southern Highlands, and had 51 guesthouses. Sadly, it has fallen largely out of fashion and these days bedsprings barely squeak.

Getting There

By car The inland route (120km) via Hume Highway (Route 31) takes just under two hours. Or take the coastal route via Princes Highway (Route 60) then turn inland onto the Illawarra Highway (Route 48) by Albion Park. It's slightly longer (130km) and slightly slower (just over two hours).
By Train Trains to the Southern Highlands depart from Central Station every day. Most stop at Mittagong, Bowral, Moss Vale and Bundanoon. The journey takes around 2.5 hours.
By Bus Several bus companies serve the Southern Highlands, among them Priors Scenic Express (1800 816 234) and Greyhound (13 2030)

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